Author: Leonie

For those of you who think we are well researched let me shatter that allusion. We are plotting our path the same way I choose a horse, dog, roach, crab or anything in a race. By it’s name of course. And this is how we found ourselves at Lightening Ridge. It sounded interesting and a little exciting and on further investigation, what a winner!

I have a sense I recognise the name from some famous Australian folk law, yarn or poem but still even after spending 3 days there I am no closer to discovering why it is familiar to me. If anyone know a verse where it features, please put me out of my misery and leave me a comment.

What I now know about Lightening Ridge is, it’s an opal town and has hot baths from the Great Artesian Basin. This body of underground water is the largest in the world and covers a vast area of NSW and more so Queensland.

We arrived after dark again, so the excitement of discovering a new place was to wait till the morning. However two things where clear. There was lush green grass (which we have not seen for a little while) and the bathroom amenities were big, well designed and immaculately clean. Really, wow, best we have seen so far. Totally recommend Opal Caravan Park, Lightening Ridge.

Next morning I got a sleep in (as much as one can when living in a caravan). It was mother’s day, and the girls had been planning for the week leading up to it. I had a wonderful day starting with breakfast in bed. Thoughtfully, Charlotte had written Ken a list of everything they needed and asked him to set it out the night before. In the morning they loaded it in the washing basket and headed off to the camp kitchen to leave me to sleep.

We then enjoyed the hot baths down the road, which were very hot, 41.5 degrees celcius. It was lovely and you could just feel the layers of tension release from your body until you were so floppy you could hardly keep your eyes open, let alone crack a smile for a photo. After this nearly sent us all to sleep we just had a very chilled out arvo. Mother’s Day pampering continued with massage, foot washing, nail painting and hair and make up done by the girls.

The day concluded with a comedy and poetry show put on in the caravan park by a couple of resident funny ladies, Sue and Mel. They were very good and got Charlotte up to do a Henry Lawson poem with them. She stole the show of course and then they decided to see if the confidence and talent continues in the family and got Georgia and Lulu up, which also meant I had to get up. Was great to see the girls get involved and Charlotte have a chance to get on a stage and perform, she just loved it!

The following day we went full tourist and did one of the opal mine tours and visited the gallery of famous Aussie artist John Murray. Artist seem to thrive in these rural towns and settings, it’s been wonderful to see. An why wouldn’t you be inspired by the freedom and environment of outback Australia.

The mine tour was wonderful. Learning about what makes Lightening Ridge special and the ins and outs of opal mining. Our guide has been and still is a miner, his father was an opal miner and he was a wonderful storyteller. The Ridge is the only place that produces the black opal (or blue/green opal). It’s only recently been considered valuable so there are plenty of stories of folk in the past having discarded them and the kids using them as marbles.

Opal mining to this day has not been a profitable enough business for the big corporation to get involved with so most of the mining is done by individuals or partnerships of men. Usually at a depth of about 18 meters you start to find opal and there is no way of knowing or judging where it may have formed, so it’s really just complete luck. It’s a largely unregulated industry, to this day anyone can pay the $600, do a one day OHS course and aquire the 50 x 50m plot and begin mining.

Still in opal mining there is a really sense of the individual miner, staking his claim and making his fortune, like in the gold rush days. But as our guide put it, “2% of us get rich, 10% of us make a comfortable living and the rest of us are living in hope”.

In the soft lime stone above the opal mine we toured in, an artist has been doing carvings and sculpting through out a network of tunnels. It’s been a life’s work in between mining and with the artist in his 70’s it’s a large body of work. It added a further enjoyable dimension to our morning in the mine.

Thumbs ups for Lightening Ridge.

What a fun drive! We were not sure if the road was going to be sealed or not, and it was not. But what fun. The surface changed constantly from compacted river bed, to clay, to drifting river sand, to rock. It really is just a road for the people who live and work on the stations out here to get on and off and through their property’s. Many of the cattle grids (and there were many, I’m thankful they were not all gates) had signs saying visitor must report to the homestead. We didn’t do this as we were just passing through.

The other aspect that made the drive fun, we only met a hand full of vechiles all day. Being new to this driving with the van I had found the drive into Broken Hill tense. The road was narrow, there was no hard shoulder to forgive any misjudgment and it was very busy with road trains.  So today, other than slowing for the cattle grids this was a relaxed and fun drive.

 

The scenery was unlike another we had come across. Flood plain for as far as the eye can see. Sometime trees but other totally baron. The colour also changed from a dark grey fine powdery dust, to the red sand to a limestone cream. The wind was up a little and it provided endless entertainment as it blew and moved lines or swirls of sand and dust about. The road would be clear and then out of nowhere there would be a line of sand snaking its way across in front of you. Someone would shout ‘dust crossing’, and then it was gone as fast as it appeared. Like flames dancing in a fire it was mesmerising to watch.

Wildlife aplenty too. Roo’s and emu’s, goats and sheep and the occasional eagle and cow or bull. This is where the “dust crossing” cry came from. We were traveling through a patch of abundant wildlife. Frequent calls of “roo crossing”, “goat crossing”, “emu crossing”. Then it was quiet and a line of dust snaked its way across the road, “ooohh” i said. Ken took his foot of the accelerator …… “dust crossing” and we all broke into giggles and laughter. Maybe we were all a little board but it amused us.

A quick stop for lunch at an old fashion and delicious tea house and we saw that we could continue to follow the Darling through to Bourke. The road was only marked very faintly but there were camps all the way along so we figured it must be well travelled. It was certainly in better condition than the road in the morning but similar scenery. We had pick a well rated station to stay at and pressed on to get there but again it was just before dark.

We had the place to ourselves and arrived just before Liz the station owner was about to head off for a meeting with the shearing team. Shearing was starting the next day and it was a busy time on the station. She gave us a wonderful book about the the station, there families story and the workings of a sheep station. It was a fascinating read.

We camped right on the banks (the very steep banks) of the darling river just near the homestead, airstrip and hanger. Unfortunately we slept in and missed the little Cessna taking off to go and assist the muster of the sheep for shearing. We took a short walk around in the morning and then made our way to Bourke and on to Lightening Ridge for our next stop.

A long day driving bought us through Broken Hill. We only had time to stop for lunch, fuel, gas and restock the cupboards. But I hope we are able to come back. It seems like such a historic town with many a tale to tell. Old buildings, another massive mine in the the middle of town, museums and art galleries galour. Turns out Pro Hart (famous Aussie artist) was from here.

Again preferring to stay out of the bigger towns and off the major hwy’s we went on another 100km south down to the Darling river and stayed at the Copi Hallow caravan park, which is also home to the Broken Hill speed boat club.

As we arrived the most amazing red sunset dipped below the horizon. We were too late to enjoy it and only catching a glimpse, along with the a lovely location and very nice camp hosts we decided to stay two nights in the hope of capturing some more of this magnificence.

Unfortunately this wasn’t to be as the weather turned windy, cold and a little wet. It did however turn out to be very interesting, as we discovered the local history of famous Australian explorers I remember my dad telling me about, and got a sense and sight of the water issues facing those who try to eek out a living down stream on the Darling river.

Tragic, is the most fitting word applied to both of these tales or woe. Burke and Wills stayed here at the Minindee Pub and I guess it was here that things started to fall apart as descent arose and the exploration party fractured under Burkes leadership. Still he must have been made of some remarkable stuff to achieve and endure all he did. And the present day tradgy is the large investment and toil put into establishing the vineyards we drove past only to have to abandon them and have the bush (and weeds) fight back and reclaim them. Broken dreams and likely some broken people attached.

The river (very low) and river gums are very beautiful and we throughly enjoy a drive through the national park, along the banks of the Darling. Even coming across the site where a paddle steamer, (transport of choice in the day) had exploded and there lay on the very high banks an old solid iron boiler. It wasn’t the only causality though as when the rest of the crew returned from the pub they discovered the body of there mate up in a tree.

It was also fascinating to see the flood markers from recent flood event 1983, 1976 and 2011. With the river so low now it’s hard to imagine how it could reach such levels but then we are a country of drought and flooding rains. We enquired about the recent flooding in Queensland and apparently it takes about 4 months for the water to arrive so plenty of time to prepare.

The Darling and the flood plains have capture our imagination and we have decided to follow her to Bourke rather than take the hwy. More adventure and dust no doubt!

 

Leaving Spear Creek we drove throw the Flinders Rangers coming out the other side to a place called Wilmington or Beautiful Valley. We stopped for a fabulous coffee from the Black Sheep Cafe. Although they were closed due to refurbishing the kitchen they kindly made us some great coffee and shared their interesting story. Sounds like we missed a wee treasure of a bush cafe with a pie to rival any other.

With water on board the van we were looking for a free camp for the night and thought we’d try the abandoned mine and ruins of Waukaringa. We prefer to be off the highway away from the noise of road trains. And I thought this might be a chance for some fascinating history.

Turned out to be quiet an adventure. Firstly because it miss calculated the distance off the highway and secondly the condition of the road to get to the camp. From Yunta we turned north off the Barrier Hwy for 30km. The warning sign at the beginning of the drive only added to the sense of adventure.

The ruins were pretty trashy with broken glass and rusty metal strewn everywhere but there were a few information plaques telling the story of yesteryear. The highlights of this stay was the country side, the stars and the road trains that travel this road at night.

We perched ourselves up upon a hill away from the eerie ruins. It felt like and we really were in the middle of nowhere. We jagged the weather with clear sky’s and nil winds to speak of and set in for another spectacular sunset with the roo’s.

The lights, dust clouds and noise of the road trains was a sight to see and you had to wonder where they were travelling to as it appreared to be a road to nowhere. How vast this land is!

Todays drive took us through some pretty epic Australian outback scenery. Flat, harsh, vast plains, red dirt and emu’s. We stopped at Iron Knob for lunch, sandwiches in the van.

What a sad looking place it is. The mine is massive and like the moving sands of a sand dune  it seems to be engulfing the town in its red dust. Driving through the town it has the feel and looks like a ghost town. We had hoped to take a mine tour or at least visit the mine museum but not surprisingly it was close as there was no volunteers to run it.

It become a little more interesting as you approach Port Augusta and the Flinders rangers. And then on the horizon you catch a glimpse of the solar collector tower glistening at you from a far. The first operational tower of its kind in the world. SA loves it’s renewable energy’s, the government has cope some flack for recent failings but their investments in renewables is admirable and ground breaking.

Our camp tonight is Spear Creek Caravan Park. What a little gem. We only stayed one night but felt right at home at this lovely caravan park with very friendly, kind and welcoming camp hosts Todd and Jodi. It was their first day on the job having taken over the running of the park for the next 6mths from the station owners. An would you believe they were from Busselton, WA.

Just past Port Augusta, nestle at the base of the Flinders rangers, it was spectacularly scenic. With the rangers towering over us and a short walk away views across the Spenser Gulf.

Spear creek itself was dry but the beautiful gums of this area are full of character. Twisty, gnarly branches, covered with a smooth, almost glossy bark, mottled with Australian bush tones.

The caravan park is part of a sheep station and you can buy meat direct from the station so we left well stocked up.

I  met another cat in Streaky Bay. This cat was a ginger cat and a scaredy cat, so I didn’t get a good picture.

The next cat we saw was in Kimba. Only mum saw this one and it was also a scaredy cat. She did get a photo then it ran away.

The nicest cat I met was in Beautiful Valley. It was sitting on a bench outside of a toy museum. She sat at the door so maybe her owner worked there. We played with her for a few minuets. She was really soft and friendly and let us pick her up. She even let Lulu pat her which is more like hitting than patting.

Georgia and her oz cats ….. over and out.

 

It’s time to get back on the road and punch out a few km’s and make some progress. First, we needed to scoot past Port Kenny for a photo op, and drive by Venus Bay which listed as it main attraction ‘Peace and tranquility’!

From there we went inland and made for Kimba, the halfway point across Australia. Also our first look at silo art and who could miss the big galah!

They have a super little free camp site in town, so we pulled up and got the bikes down to go explore the town and have a look at this silo art. What a neat tidy and proud little town. Kimba had a really good feel about it.

Eileen’s cafe did great coffee and smashed avo to get us on our way the next day. All in all we loved Kimba

Well the pace of travel has really slowed down and we are loving it! Arriving at Streaky Bay it was our intention to stay just the one night but 3 nights later and we are still here! Tomorrow however we move on, albeit reluctantly.

The Eyre Peninsula is stunning! Vast rolling coastal landscapes, peaceful calm bays on one side and powerful, wild, raging sea batter the other. It’s been dramatic and delightful all at once.

We would love to stay for much longer and explore the Peninsula for much longer but need to press on  to Coolum, (Sunshine Coast) for work in the van and warmer weather!

The Caravan Park is located right on Streaky Bay. Some sites even back on to the beach and we have seen folks having fires.

It’s clean and comfortable, has good amenities, close to town and in a beautiful prime location. The kids have made friend with the family next door also 3 kids, 2 months into there lap of Oz.

The town is small and cute, haven’t spent much time exploring it. But we did have lunch in a very hip and fabulous cafe today. Scrumptious food and coffee top notch. The town has the feel of Dunsborough some 20 years ago.

Highlights, (other than today’s lunch), the blowholes and whistling rocks (although this frightened Gigi), were really spectacular, and this afternoons frollick at The Granites and a visit to a camp place called ‘Ruby’s beach’.

We nearly spent the night there as I flattened the battery leaving the electrics in the car on. Luckily Ken had purchased a lithium jump pack just days before we departed Perth and it got us out of the poo. Phew!

We have managed to string together two days of school for a few hours in the morning and it’s worked well. Being prepared and ready the night before is the key.

After the usual push back from Charlotte we have found a way to provide a structure that will work well for the girls and give us most of the day to explore, have fun and do plenty of natural learning.  With travel days being the exception.

Hopefully this will go a long way to getting us into a rhythm.  Now for the discipline to execute the plan consistently!

We may have to find our way back to the Eyre Peninsula, in warmer weather and continue our fun and adventure.

We have loved Streaky Bay and had an amazing afternoon playing and paddling at The Granites. However as I dipped my feet in the cool, clear waters I spotted and plucked out the above pictured plastic bag from the water.

A habit I have formed over the years, is collecting 3 pieces of rubbish and taking it with me when out in nature or anywhere really. Feeling pleased I had saved some unfortunate marine animal from suffocating on that bag, I thought I would see if I could collect my usual 3 pieces of rubbish from this pristine beautiful place.

As my eyes became attuned it was easy to spot against the pale sands the wee pieces of green and blue plastic, even those micro one’s.

Reduce, Reduce, Reduce. So many towns don’t have plastic bags in their supermarkets and stores. Us city slickers need to catch up and quick!

So we have made it to civilization again. A spotless, small, well cared for and privately owned caravan park. With a playground a short cycle away and a windmill museum just opposite. In fact   Penong claims fame to the home of Australia’s largest windmill – the comet!

Water was the most exciting feature though. The laundry amenities immaculate so I took the opportunity to get all the linen done. Our little machine in the van won’t manage to do more then one sheet at a time and the bed spread is out of the question. $4 a load didn’t seem too bad.

Unfortunately we have had a few niggling issues with the van. One being it’s big claim to fame, being dust proof. Well ours is currently not. An issue I am sure Zone will sort when we arrive in Coolum. But in the mean time we will try and stay off dirt roads now and continue to clean up the dust.

While I did the washing, Ken and the girls explored the town and windmills on their bikes and in the evening we had a lovely pub meal and friendly conversation with the locals.

The next day the girls were sick of the traveling wanting a day about the van. So that’s what we did. We had hoped to visit a few local sights but somehow the day slipped away.

We did a little schooling in the morning. The day before Charlotte had spotted the local netball courts and wanted to go, so we jumped on the bikes and Georgia and Lulu played in the play ground while Charlotte produced from her bag a netball and her trusty speaker, (great birthday gift Grandma and Papa). Never movement without music for this girl. She was willing to take a few coaching tips from me and I have to admit it felt good being back on a netball court.

The rest of the day we relaxed before dinner and we were treated to another dashing desert from Charlotte. She does like to cook up a storm and has some very high faluting idea’s for a small caravan kitchen. But the end product was delicious, it only took me a few hours to clean up after her ;).

We enjoyed our stay here even though we really didn’t really explore the local area. Next stop Streaky Bay!