Ahhhh, it feels like coming home. Strange because it’s not home but these days anywhere we have been more than once and holds a form of familiarity, feels exciting. Apart from that we love the Sunny Coast and Coolum Beach.
There is always something going at the surf club in Coolum Beach.
Goldilocks is ready but we’ve booked and air bnb for a week while we go through the repairs and make sure she is ready to be picked up and move back into. Aside from van stuff we are keen to visit a few of our favorite places again. When here last, Ken was working back in Perth for a week and then working again once back with us so he really didn’t see much.
Other priorities are keeping up and catching up with school, getting some kind of regime for healing Georgia’s gut. There are some great health shops here, a GP to follow up with and plenty of cooking and researching for new recipes to be done.
Ken’s ‘salmon and avo stack’ was a winner.
We revisited the Ginger Factory again, this time with Ken, Betty’s Burgers – Noosa YUM, the gorgeous wee town of Monteville and our favorite German restaurants ‘King Ludwig’. The chef’s speciality soup is to die for and he is Coeliac so we felt safe eating there plus the views of the Glasshouse mountains, spectacular! And the kids were busting to visit Australia Zoo again.
Fun for all the fam at the Ginger FactoryAfter lunch at ‘King Ludwig’s’
Moving back into Golidlocks was great. We were all keen to get back to our own wee crib and the rhythm of van life. The first setup though was hilarious, trying to remember what to do and we had a new jack on the front to work out how to use. It took about 20 minuets to finally get the legs down on the van and get inside.
It’s not always sun and surf in van life, just most of the time!
Coolum caravan park was fantastic and we met some really fabulous families. So great for the kids to have playmates and Georgie in particular made a special little friend which was so nice because she really misses home and having her bestie to play with. While they were all younger than Charlotte she had them entertained and hanging off her every word.
All the kids playing together in the caravan park #vanlife
Inspired again by Australia Zoo another bake sale was organized, this time for Georgie with her little friend Indi and they smashed it selling out and raising $106.00 for the Tiger protection program run through Australia Zoo.
Boom! $106.00 for Australia Zoo’s Tiger Protection in the GF bake sale
After extending our stay at the CP a couple of times we finally had to move on but not before having and epic beach day on Noosa Northshore. We just love taking a picnic lunch, having a drive on the beach and parking up.
We love the Sunny Coast, fantastic weather, no crocs and so much variance in beautiful natural landscapes.
With the batwing awning providing plenty of shade it’s just awesome sitting back and watching the girls play, swim, dance, build, create and generally have a ball.
An epic way to finish our time on the Sunny Coast, bid farewell to Queensland and make our way south to New South Wales.
Well we broke our own rule after only one week. Our attempts to slow the pace down and not be constantly on the move came unstuck as Zone RV pulled a rabbit out of a hat and announced the van was going to be ready the day we were leaving Cow Bay.
Having just had such a wonderful week here in FNQ, I was feeling satisfied with all we managed to see and do in Queensland and we were keen to get back to Goldilocks and get back on with van life.
Had a top lunch at the ‘Grazing Goat Cafe’ in Mackay.
So out with our promise to slow the pace down and we decided to leg-it down the coast as fast as possible. Three long days of travel, overnighting in Townsville and just outside of Rockhampton. We really did just pull up late in the evening, ate, washed and reset for the next day.
Cardwell, QLD, where we listened to the Melbourne Cup on the radio while we ate lunch.
Cardwell was devastated by Cyclone Yasi in Feb 2011, but the community rallied and with lots of rebuilding, it looks fantastic today.
The days were long but I love watching the world go by, Ken enjoys the driving and listening to podcasts and the girls love watching movie after movie on the ipad. Ugh, I judge myself harshly for this and as much as I hate it, the guilty truth is, I have just given in to allowed the ipads to occupy the girls and get us through these long, confined days in the car. I suppose its that old 80/20 rule. At least Elsa keeps singing to me, offering encouragement and support to ……. ‘Let it go, Let it go’.
What a wonderful week! We are so far behind on the blog. I find myself writing this post 4 months after we were actually there. (and posted 8 months later!!!). However with that said, as I start to revisit in my mind the things we did I also remember the feelings I had about this place and the time we shared. I distinctly remember feeling this might be my fav spot yet, (but then I say that a lot).
We have come back from our overseas trip with a focus to clean up our eating, improve our gut health and that was even before we had Georgia’s ceoliac diagnosis. However, my idea’s of this being a gradual process were not to be. With Georgia being so unwell at this point (in constant pain with her tummy, losing weight, refusing food, aching bones and joints) and Ken commitment to get his body in a state of ketosis it felt like a drastic and immediate change.
But a change for the good and while it felt a little overwhelming to be doing this all while traveling Australia, and the challenges that brings it is a positive change for our family and we are all going to benefit for this. I was very grateful to just be in the one spot for 7 days so I could wrap my head around it.
The house was amazing. Loads of space, set amongst the rainforest and the pool was just sublime. We were off gird so the house was running on solar and had no air-con. It was hot and humid, for that authentic rainforest experience, so to be able to cool off was wonderful.
We love getting out and exploring the new and exciting locations we find ourselves in but everyone equally enjoy’s the treasure of down time at home. And this house was very comfortable to just mooch about in. I even found the time to read a book. Totally unheard of, a guilty pleasure, taking the time and just sitting around reading or staying up late into the quiet wee hours of the morning to read in peace.
After our break from schooling while we travelled in Europe. This was the focus of each morning and the few outings we had took us to the Daintree Discovery Centre which was super, Cow Bay beach – beautiful, cool, interesting beach coombing an awesome tree swing, and a drive to Wadjul Wadjul falls for a picnic with a couple of local crocs.
The weekend bought family time with Meg, Andrew and Jack. Saturday we went back to Brooklyn for lunch, a catch up and play. Then Sunday we all meet at the Daintree River for a crusie before returning to our house for lunch, a swim and more chat.
Walking through the canopy at the Daintree Discovery Centre
It’s been a really joy spending time with Meg and Andrew and to see the next generation of cousins play and laugh for hours in the pools just awesome.
Magic memories made right there. We round out our week with a totally terrific trip out to the Great Barrier Reef. It was a small tour of just 25 leaving from Cape Trib and departing from the beach here it’s only 20 minutes to the reef. Conditions were great, the water was warm and we all had enough time to have a fabulous snorkel seeing oodles of cool fish, giant clams, turtles and clown fish.
Ocean Safari were the company and the staff were super. Suppling a prescription set of googles for Georgia was a complete bonus but the guys on the boat were fab, looking after every little need. Making sure the kids saw all the best stuff and teaching them how to dive down to explore more. They are the only ones who operate out of Cape Trib so you cant miss them but do yourself a favor. It really was just a wonderful morning.
The girls are getting great at snorkelling
The next day we departed having loved every minute. We got word the van was ready to be collected in Coolum so it was going to be some very long days to leg it down the coast. We bid farewell to FNQ, satisfied in what we have done but already looking forward to being back one day.
So we are back on the road but this time without Goldilocks the van. After the rough treatment the roads of Cape York dished out she was in need of some work and Ken was keen to have her all spic n’ span by the time we got back. However this meant the car was in Cairns and the van now in Coolum on the Sunshine Coast some 1,500km away.
Feeling we hadn’t quiet finished our time here in FNQ we opted to pay for accommodation and see the things I just knew I couldn’t leave behind without regret. So after 3 days in Cairns reacclimatizing to the humidity we booked a week in a house in the Daintree / Cape Tribulation.
So so so glad we did and didn’t miss this beautiful bit of OZ. It also came with the added bonus of spending a little more time with my cousins Meg, Andrew and Jack, and enable us to gather a few remaining items they had stored for us while we were away.
At the aquarium
While in Cairns we visited the lagoon and the aquarium. Kicked of the schooling which had been on hold while overseas and cleaned out the car. What a state we had left her in. It was a shock to open the doors and see the dust, sand and uncleanliness we had become immune to while traveling in the Cape. Amazing how one’s standards drop when in the bush.
Pelicans on the waterfront
We had also made the decision that we needed to slow the pace down of our travels. While it’s exciting being in new places so frequently the traveling is over whelming. Not leaving enough time to catch your breath, keep up with the schooling, keep up with the blogging, keep up with required nourishment for each member of our mob.
Georgie has been unwell for months now. Complaining of tummy aches and aching bones and joints. Bless her, she hardly complains but it was time to slow down and have things investigated a little more.
While in Perth we went to our GP and run some test and on our last morning here in Cairns the GP called to say she had tested positive to Coeliac’s Disease. BOOM! What now?
Back on the ‘Captain Cook Highway’ 😉
Well as we were packed and already on the road we continued to Cape Tribulation for a quiet week to read a lot, do what we can to help her gut heal and process what this all means.
After a wonderful first night together the kids continued to enjoy their time together. With them occupied, Ken and I got on with the packing up the van, the flushing out of the water tanks and packing the few items we were taking to Perth and possibly onward to Scotland.
Not much of what we have to wear is really suitable or decent enough. It’s amazing how your standards relax when there is no one around to keep them up for. As we approach Cooktown and even coming here to Meg and Andrews I suddenly become conscious of how grotty our clothes had become and how scruffy the kids looked. Although those three gorgeous girls carry off the rugged, unkept look so well.
Meg and Andrew agreed to store the van for us which was brilliant. With Cairns only an hour and a half away, it was going to work out beautifully to leave the van here at Brooklyn, drive down Cairns, leaving the car in long term parking, before flying to Perth for a few days and onwards to Scotland.
The country is just so beautiful up here and I feel we have not yet finished seeing all we wish to see. So the thought of just picking up where we left off, when we get back from Europe sounds super. However Goldilocks has taken a bit of a beating up the Cape and is in need to of a little TLC back in the Zone RV factory in Coolum. Ken is keen to have her sent down while we are away, to be all spic-n-span for when we return. A case of watch this space for how this one will play out.
In the afternoon Andrew took us for a tour of the property and up to a spectacular lookout right across Mt Carbine to the Mitchell Ranges. We all piled in the dual cab ute and crossed the Mary creek as Andrew explain the management of the land. It’s totally fascinating and Andrew is a great orator, backed up with lifetimes worth of knowledge and experience.
The grasses and eucaltipus trees make for a beautiful setting along with all the hues of the Australian bush, it certainly etches an unforgettable picture and feeling upon you. And for the kids riding in the back of the Ute with Jack, screaming and laughing their heads off will be unforgettable for them.
Sadly, next day was to be our last here but before heading to Cairns the boys were going to get Andrews boat in the water and try and catch us a feed. It’s was going to be an early start for them so after sharing another delicious meal we retired early.
The girls, Jack and the dogs played all day and Lulu and Meg were new bestfriends so I was able to clear out the fridge and freezer and finalize the packing. Meg also insisted upon play fairy godmother (just one of her many hats), and mopped up what was left of the defrosting freezer and insisted on washing the sheets while we were away. So grateful and blessed to have such wonderful family.
The boys fishing trip had been a top day out, with the weather being spot on and the reef looking spectacular as always. The fish were biting, if only for Kenny but Andrew knew how to find them. Ken caught a coral trout.
And unfortunately while on the line a shark ate probably the best catch of the day. Suddenly the struggle to haul the catch in end and all that made it on the boat was a good sized head.
Even the trip up and down the Daintree River proved eventful with three croc spottings, and one sinking asylum seeker boat. Ken and Andrew had thought the abandoned, sinking, long boat to be curious and the news that night revealed the full story. What a river to land in! Not too many folk can claim to have taken a swim in the Daintree River.
Wouldn’t want to go for a swim in the Daintree
A wonderful stay and chance to reconnect with family and it was amazing to see the kids enjoy playing together too. They really did hit it off well, must be a family thing. So grateful to have had to opportunity to stop in albeit brief and already looking forward to coming back.
So we loaded up the car, bid farewell to Meg, Andrew, Jack, Dozer and Doughnut and drove off, without Goldilocks. Love that van but also excited about the prospects of a bigger bathroom, bed and all the adventure of a different kind to come.
I suppose that is a wrap for Part One of HallingAround.
We started the day in Laura and before getting to Cooktown learned there was some significant examples of Aboriginal rock art only 15 minutes down the road. The Split Rock art galleries are the most famous of a collection of sites up here in Cape York and are listed by UNESCO as being among the top 10 sites in the world.
Ahh – I se why it’s called Spit Rock
It is a self guided up hill walk to the art sites but worth it. My first time viewing rock art and when viewing history I always love taking my imagination back in time to the people who gather here in this place and created these painting.
Staring out at the same view, walking this same piece of earth. Only separated by thousands of year. Charlotte shares a love of history especially when it’s bought to life.
Our stay in Cooktown is only brief this time. We had left the bikes here with Nico the fish guy. Knowing we’d have little opportunity to use them up the cape it seemed silly to carry the extra weight and get them all dusty.
We had loved Cooktown and wished we had longer to linger but time with family and a new adventure awaited. We overnighted at the same caravan park, requesting a sunny site this time to try and counter the sandflies that mauled us last time. Apparently they like the shade but really there wasn’t much time sit amoungst them anyway. With shopping and washing to be done we didn’t hang about camp much.
The next morning was an early start and we didn’t even fuss with breakfast hoping to grab the bikes early and still have time to grab a delious bite at our fav little spot, the Driftwood cafe. Yum, just as amazing as we remembered. The people, view, food and coffee all completely noteworthy.
With only a short drive down the road to Mt Carbine, Brooklyn Wildlife Sanctuary to stay with Meg and Andrew it was a relaxing start to the day. The drive was spectacular as you come through the ranges and down the other side. Views across the plain and across to the next set of ranges. We did have a near miss on this stretch though with a rather large cow 🐄 standing in the middle of the road right on a bend. Lucky for us he was on the other side but we put the call out over the radio anyway for any other vechicle traveling to cautious.
That night being a Friday we cracked out the pizza oven and shared a night of pizza, chat and the starry starry sky with great Meg, Andrew, Jack and the call of some wild cats fighting in the not to far distance. The young cousins played and watch a movie while the older cousin sat around the fire a caught up.
Beautiful country this and fastinating to learn about it and the management of the land from Andrew and Meg. Very much looking forward to exploring and learning more tomorrow.
Back on the road again, and another long travel day. We loved our time in the Iron Range National Park and Lockhart River but our thoughts are turning to our up coming overseas trip and we need to get off the Cape and try and piece together as many days as we can to visit with my cousins Meg, Andrew and Jack.
The drive is now mostly territory we have covered on the way up. Dusty, beautiful and bumpy. Roads conditions have remained the same but our feelings have changed. We drive along with the sense that our Cape York adventures are coming to a close. There is a tinge of sadness as we have loved, almost, every moment of it but also our heads and hearts are filled with gratitude to be able to share this together and for the glowing memories we get to take away.
Dust
More Dust
Dust Everywhere
The kilometer pass away with the usual rhythm of the long days in the car we have become accustomed to. We arrive at Musgrave Telegraph Station for refreshments and fuel before reaching Laura where we pull up for the night.
The entertainer we enjoyed so much at Bramwell Station talked or sang about where Cape York begins and ends, and how it’s different for everyone. Is it when you leave Cooktown? Or maybe it’s when you do your first river crossing? For some it’s leaving the surfaced roads and hitting the dirt and dust or maybe it the first telegraph station. For me it was the beginning and end of the dirt road, and there is was just after leaving Musgrave.
The smooth grey bitumen approached and ….. k-choonck, the last bump up onto the bitumen. No more rattling, no more dust, no more bumping around, smooth and quiet. And there it is, finish!
We had heard a little about the drive into Lockhart River but in reality it smashed our expection. The road was excellent in some part but awful in others. However by far the most difficult or frustrating part was the constant undulations.
With the dips often being a very sharp and rocky washout we were always needing to be on the breaks to carefully get the drawbar through without incident and keeping things smooth for ‘Goldilocks’ the van and her contents. Not being able to sustain any kind of momentum and having to continuously judge your breaking and the nature of each dip, made for a challenging drive.
Crossing the Wenlock River on the way to Iron Range NP
Beautiful though! Eventually the Iron Ranges come into view and you suddenly realise the vegetation has done one of its spectacular costume changes again, seamlessly without you noticing. By the end of the day we will be setting up camp in the Rainforest of the Iron Range National Park. The largest remaining area of lowland rainforest in Australia and home to some unique species of plants and animals.
We were excited to experience a night in the rainforest. Imagining the sights and sounds to be different from that of our usual camps. But a little of that excitement waned as we faced a couple of the steepest and challenging river/creek crossings. Not unlike what we had done on our day on the Old Telegraph Track, accept this time we had the van hitched on. Yikes! It certainly cause a pause for thought ……. , then with breath held we edged through and Audrey pull Goldilocks up that hill. Love that beast of a car, she’s a total star!
At this point I have to acknowledge the amazing job Ken had done in getting the vechile, (Audrey) and van, (Goldilocks), set up for doing this rough and tough stuff. The amount of research and extra work Ken has had done on the Cruiser may have seemed excessive for a couple of novices. However when we have found ourselves in need of a little more specialized performance; Kenny twists a few knobs, pushes a few buttons (all of which I have know idea what they do) and viola! Beast and van lap it up.
Camp # 42 – A Night in the Rainforest, Iron Range National Park
Hot and Shitty! Obvious really, but I think we both had this romantic notion of it being adventurous, cool and noisy, teaming with wildlife. Humid and draining with too much shade (funny that in a rainforest) to run the a/c. No matter, the show must go on. Set up, camp fire, a delicious dinner of fish curry and a freaky night time walk through the forest looking for a green tree python 🐍 made it memorable but this little travelling family has learnt we are more beach people than rainforest folk.
Gordon Creek Camping Area 04 – In the Rainforest
Camp # 43 – Nirvana!, Chili Beach, Iron Range National Park
Again another one of those spots vans the size of ours, raise eyebrow’s at. And you know what they are thinking, because I’m thinking it too. How are we going to get that van into there. Kenny always full of confidence never seems phased and true to form, he nails it. WOW! What a spot. Just meters from the beach of white sands and turquoise waters (shame we cant swim in it). A quick set up as we’re busting to explore the beach a little more.
Ken does one of his manouvers to get is in to site 25
The kids are straight into building a cubby with palm frond and coconuts and i’m keen to try my hand at the basket weaving i’d seen on Thursday Island. The feeling is relaxed and delight. We are going to be here for three days and have the sense we are just going to chill at Chili Beach. A lovely feeling and somehow seems to lasts despite, reality being the usual rhythm of no time to stop.
The Girls Beach ShackLeonie trying out her new weaving skills
There is always more bread to be made, dished to do done, washing to hang out and the next load to go on, firewood to collect, snacks and meals to prepare, toddler and big kids to love, nourish and cherish, school work to be prepared and done, planning and research into where and what’s next, oh and musn’t forget to make the time to say ‘f#*% it’ to that never ending list and go and enjoy the sublime piece of the planet we find ourselves in. Amen!
We just loved our time here, and to think it was touch and go if we had the time to make it. Beach walks revealed treasures like gnarly trees to climb and hide in, coconuts at variant stages of their life cycle, kooki coconut faces and views views views. A drive on the beach took us to a great pool to swim in (YEAH!!!!) And the surrounding forest provided ample wood for the magic of camp fires and pizzas too.
Wilson!
Toss the Coconut
Hanging Out
A paddle at last
Can I have more please?
Wood fired pizza beachside
Georgia!
Spot the girls
We did make one little outing to nearby Portland. In the past it had been a harbour/supply port during the war. Now however, it’s a tranquil spot with delicious little cafe. The last thing you are expecting to find which makes it all the more exciting. Views, cold drinks and a scrumptious prawn roll. It really doesn’t get much better.
View from Portland cafe, what a gem
Chili Beach is also famous for its wind, and it certainly did pick up during our stay. We had jagged a fairly sheltered camp site and with the van we had name bother. For the campers in tents, it did reek havoc and finally they abandoned camp and moved on.
There is a magic to this place, a feeling or energy that just slows you down. Definately a happy place for our tribe.
Chili Beach
Lockhart River Community
Before leaving we wanted to pay a visit to the aboriginal art centre and did so before continuing our journey south down the cape. We knew it was a dry community and after planning a couple of other visits into the town for supplies this time we had forgotten about the one bottle of bubbles I had been carrying for a special occasion. After debate we decided it wasn’t worth the risk of the fine (max $75,000) and decided to empty it on the road side.
The art centre was super and we left with a few lovely pieces that will hopefully adorn our walls as a reminder of these magic lands.
One of the pieces we picked up to remind us of our time at Lockhart River.
A couple of long travel days ahead with little else to report. Being territory we had already covered and nothing more we wished to see, it was just about getting south in the best time the roads permitted.
More corrugation, endless beautiful country to travel through (I never get tired of the vast nothingness), more dust in the van and now in our water tanks too, one audio book “Wonder” by R. J. Palacio (fabulous), many more movies on the iPads for the kids, one bout of car sickness and an endless supply of car snacks. We covered nearly 600km but it felt like lots more.
Yep they are green under all that dust
We broke the trip up with a nights stay at Archer River Roadhouse, happy to report the burger is still delicious, showers are hot and folks friendly. Arriving at Moreton Telegraph Station was like visiting a little oasis. Lush green grass!
We also run into a few folk we had met along our travels up here and hadn’t seen for a week or more. One couple we met at the IGA in Bamaga as they were rescueing this particularly desperate looking soul of a dog. She was so skinny and in such an awful way but now just 5 days later, wow so much better and even fatter. Hats off to this Melbourne couple, it was so heart breaking to see these animals suffering and feeling helpless to do anything for them. And the other family with a daughter about Georgie’s age, so the girls all enjoyed having an extra playmate.
You’ve probably been up here long enough when she didn’t even look dirty when I put her in the bath!
With our time on the Cape coming to an end there was still one more adventure for us to squeeze in. As we don’t imagine we’ll be back, I didn’t want to miss a visit to Lockhart River. A dry aboriginal community know for its Arts, the Rainforest of Ironbark National Park and the beautiful Chili Beach.
Colour of the water coming out of our taps. The kids keep thinking I’m trying to feed them brown rice when its cooked in this water. I just say “no no, its Cape York Rice, its a speciality up here”.
Having left the tip of Cape York a few days ahead of schedule we planned to travel the short distance to the Jardine River crossing campsite to spend a couple of nights. Stopping here would allow us to unhitch and visit Elliot and Twin falls.
Elliot and Twin falls are just off the northern section of the tele-track with no way to get in there with our van and we said it was a must visit given how amazing Fruit-Bat falls were.
We made a classic error this morning. Keen to get going we left the townships of Umagico without filling up on fuel, telling ourselves we’ll fill up at Jardine River. Only once we had crossed the river did we discover the fuel pumps were out of order. In researching our travels in Cape York we read ‘never drive past a chance to fuel up, you never know if your next planned stop will actually have fuel’! Doh!
Being it was such a short drive day we had time and little other options but to unhitch the van and for Ken to dash back to Bamaga a township at the tip to refuel before returning to us. At $130 a pop to cross the river we were grateful the guys running the ferry took pity and let us go back without extra charge.
The girls and I set up camp, did some school and just settled in till Ken returned. As soon as Ken got back and Lulu finished her sleep we jumped in the car to get Elliot falls. The local guys told us of a short cut which was great because we had wasted a bit chunk of the day chasing fuel.
Q: When is a short cut not a short cut? ……… Well, it may have been shorter in distance but with two not so easy river crossings and some hairy cut out sections of track it took us longer than if we’d taken the long route to the falls. It did however add to the drama and theatre of our day and overall adventure of Cape York. At the time I recall feeling a little miffed as we were already short on time but they were two (Canal creek and Sam Creek) of the more significant crossings we did and incredibly beautiful.
Finally we arrived at the falls and the sun was setting but actually it was a beautiful time to be there. Most people were leaving and we ended up with the falls all to ourselves. It was a lovely swim initially in clear what but after a while the pools turned milky.
At first I thought it was from us stirring up the sediment on the bottom but later we read as cars cross the river further up stream the sediment is carried down and it changes from clear to cloudy and back to clear again. Maxing out time there we returned to camp, driving home to the red and orange hues of the setting sun and finally the darkness of night.
