Camp # 34 , Days 106 – Old Laura Station, Lakefield NP, Cape York

First days drive – Cooktown to Old Laura Homestead. We’d received some intel from the local fish man (Nicko!) that the main road, the Penninsular Developement Road (PDR), was not in great condition and Battlecamp road was a good alternative. So with this advice Ken planned and booked our first four nights up the Cape staying in various camp in Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park (CYPAL).

We were looking forward to our first ford crossing (the Normandy) and it was fantastic but we made a rookie mistake. With me in the drivers seat and Ken on the banks filming us with the drone. All went well until we were across and realized Ken was left on the wrong side.

Crocodile Ken being more focused on the shot and not the practicalities was just going to walk across. Never one to be too worried about the rules, I was putting my foot down, “nar mate, not this time. Stay put.” We’ve got these rules, not in the water, not near the water, not over the water, and I can see I’m gonna have to remind him a few times.

With there not really being anywhere to turn the van around and never having backed the van before, some kind folks packed up their lunch preparations and went and picked him up. Note to self – fly drone from the car.

The remainder of the drive was pleasant but bumpy. Corrugations pretty much all the way with a few more smallish fords and a number of dust bowls (large sandy holes in the otherwise hard corrugated compacted gravel). These can be really tricky to spot and to hit at speed can do some serious damage.

Arriving at our camp spot by 1400, we first drove on and checked out the Old Laura Station which operated form the late 1800 till 1946. It was only a kilometer down the road but it was hot and dusty and this is winter! The dust is noteworthy, as you first touch earth from the car and every step thereafter a cloud of fine powdery dust engulfs you foot before settling again. Immediately your mind goes to imagining this may be what moon dust is like and you start taking slow large moon walking steps. Or maybe that was just me.

Entering the van after the days travel, there was few causalities, upholstery edging on lounge seating, kitchen draw off runners, kitchen window blind retracting spring gone. We had let our tyres down to 25 psi but after seeing this carnage I was convinced we needed to go lower and we did the next day, down to 20 psi.

Our camp site was shaded and lovely. Camp was made, wood was collected and fire was set. Then the kids enjoyed a bit of down time reading and doing puzzles while Ken, Lulu and I explored the nearby dry river bed of the Laura River.

created by dji camera

Evening brought out the stars, camp fire and the wild life. After dinner Ken got up to light the fire only to be spook out of his wits by an owl jumping out of the tree nearest him to grab its dinner of the ground. It landed only a meter from him and with a thud and flurry of flapping feathers took of again while we all went, WHAT THA!

That wasn’t the only wild life, Roos at dusk are a given but in addition in the complete dark with a torch you could scan low to ground and spot a million reflecting eyes peeping back at you. Spider eyes and then we had the company of some largerish animal rustling the bush for hours but not revealing itself. Maybe goat, wild pig or cattle. We heard it push over a few small trees so something strong but not the slightest bit interested in us.

Camp # 33, Days 101 to 105 – Cooktown, QLD

Driving to Cooktown took us through yet again more rapidly changing and varied country. Tropical coastal rainforest, hills and farming land, burnt out bush, bush and scrub and vast open grassy plains always with a mountain range in the back ground. The Great Dividing Range is never far away, we have been traveling along side and or through it continuiously since we hit the east coast or OZ at Byron Bay.

We stop for lunch at a spectacular look out. The views were stunning, bush loo’s well kept and the information boards on this area of Far North Queensland (FNQ) fantastic. And a steady flow of chatting and interesting travelers. We love chatting to folk. It’s really the done thing but you learn so much and it just add another shade of colour to your day. While reading these info boards, a couple of artsy gay gentlemen shared with me about the aboriginal artist briefly mentioned, Thancoupie. They had worked with her and warmly spoke of her gift of sculpture and the invaluable children’s books she wrote in her language. A brief but brilliant encounter.

While we were keen to stay at any number of the free camps in the area we were drawn to the town to make it easy to ready ourselve for the trip to the cape. Once settle we found ourselve right at home here and ended up extending our 3 day stay to 5 days. Our first night was a bit of a shamozzle but things improved and finding I am already looking forward to returning to Cooktown.

We chose to ride the bikes into town to explore before the sun went down and grab and early dinner. But as we arrived and the children started to play at the playground we were beckoned over by an aboriginal man and lady, Val, who was not feeling well and needing help to get to the hospital. Being on the bikes we weren’t much help but after spending a bit of time with her and trying to suss out the taxi service in Cooktown we ended up placing a 000 call to get her there. I think she had a complicated medical history and was probably sceptic. She was a bit off the plant but a sweet natured lady grateful for the kindness.

Before the Ambulance I tried the taxi service only to get a recorded message saying they were closed after 5pm and if this was an emergency you’d better let them know before 4 p.m. Good to know I’ll be sure to plan all my emergency before 4 p.m. next time …… Love it!

While I was helping Val it got dark so Ken took the kids to the bowls club for dinner (very average meal only adding the failing of the night), locked our bikes up out the front only to realize he had the wrong keys to unlock them again. Doh! And the gate on the kids play area was nackered and pinched Lulu, resulting in her screaming the place down on two occasions. A stroke of luck resulted in Ken getting a lift back to the caravan park to get the right keys and following and uneventful ride home we happy to just get back to Goldilocks without any further incidents.

The rest of our time in Cooktown went smoothly and now as I reflect on what we did and who we met I see clearly why I have such fond feelings for Cooktown.

We met fellow Zoners (the collective name given to folks the own a Zone RV caravan), Frank and Wendy. Turns out their van was the next one of the factory floor following ours so it was super handy sharing experience and knowledge. We also learnt about there experience heading to the tip of Australia as they had just returned. A lovely couple whom we hope to meet on the road again. Uncle Peter as he came to be know, local celebrity, school bus driver, shaker and mover of Hay (Central NSW). What a real Aussie ledgend. He was our neighbour, loved a chat, loved the kids, generous to a fault, even came and did a school lesson for them on Hay. And then there was the boys from Tassie who caught enough fish to feed most of the caravan park and they did. The freezer is still half full of fish!

There was the usually, washing, cooking, schooling, cleaning, child wrangling etc to be done, but amongst all that, a visit to The Captain James Cook Museum, a visit to the Cooktown Historical Centre, an amazing prawn and avocado roll, brunch at a little oasis of a cafe called Driftwood, and a sunset cruise on the Endevour River including the best cheese platter ever. Enjoyed in complete darkness, sitting silently in a mangrove accompanied by our first wild croc, (too dark for photographs). A large, majestic, graceful mover in the water, thrilling would sum up that experience.

Finally our time at Cooktown finished with a splendid sunset and the sweetest prawns i’ve ever eaten, a top the very same ‘Grassy Hill’ Cook, Banks and a few other crew from the Endevour climb to attain better knowledge of their surrounding lands and water.

Thank you Cooktown!

Our favorite little cafe – Driftwood. A must visit for delicious food and coffee. Run by really nice folks as well.

Camp # 32, Days 98 to 100 – Port Douglas, QLD

Georgia’s wish for her birthday (27th of July, so you can see how behind on the blog we are), was to be in a caravan park with a water park and with only one near Port Douglas that was an easy descision. What a beautiful park though. Large lush trees and palms with vines and ferns growning all over them and a heated pool. Being about 15 mins out of Port it was located amongst the sugar cane feilds at the base of some rainforest covered hills, it also meant it was pretty peaceful away from the hustle, bustle and lure of shops in Port Douglas.

We didn’t do any sightseeing here. Had a brief wander and lunch in Port Douglas on the first day and other than that hung around the caravan park. That said it was still hectic. It took a full day baking and decorating Georgia’s rainbow cake but it was enjoyable doing it together and the result was very satisfying.

Lulu seem to be starting to transition out of day sleeps and has been not going to bed until 10 -11 o’clock. Yikes! I cherish that quiet time of the evening to just be on my own, or with Ken and decompress. At first you have no idea what is going on and why this is happening and then I think back to the other girls and realized this is all part of the process. We are also beginning toilet training. She is just wanting to be nappy free more and more, so it seems like the right time. Haven’t really got a plan for how to do this in the van yet and haven’t found a shop to get a toilet seat or potty yet so it’s going to be interesting.

Georgia’s birthday was a lovely day. Balloons, presents, pancakes, pool / water slides, lunch, cake, candles and singing, phone calls from family and friends rounded out with pizza and movie! Yep not bad. She had hoped to meet some other kids so we could have a little party but that didn’t come to be, so we’ve promised when we meet some friends and are in the one place for long enough, she can have a little party.

We would like to have visited the Daintree but are not too worried as we are pretty sure we will be coming back this way after visiting Cape York. For now we are pushing north and there is an air of excitement as we get closer to Cape York. It a location high on our list of must see. Bring it on!

Camp # 31, Days 95 to 97 – Lake Placid, Cairns, QLD

Being it was again a relatively short drive we opted to visit Paronella Park. Everyone raves about it and it was a very pleasant visit. Now in ruins but under gradual restoration, it is to a place that shows you dreams do come true. It just takes a lot of passion, displine, love and hard work. Jose Paronella dreamt of building a castle. Being the youngest of six from a poor family he had little prospects. Immigrating to Australia with nothing and working in the mines and as a cane cutter he saved enough to begin his dream.

What came of it was a spectular oasis open to the public from 1935. With beautiful ground, picnic areas, catering, tennis courts, ballroom, theatre, water falls, bridges, tunnels and lush tropical gardens, it was the place to be in its day. Today it stands in ruins from floods, fire and neglect but still the ground are beautiful and lovingly maintained, restoration gradually underway and with a guided tour it an enjoyable outing.

Staying on the outskirts of Cairns at Lake Placid was the perfect location to for the two main attractions we wanted to visit. Firstly Karanda and secondly Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park. It was also going to be the last chance to get things for Georgia’s 7th birthday. Being a total sucker for birthday’s and party’s I fear I may have bitten of more than I can chew with a rainbow unicorn theme and the birthday girl determined to find some friend and have a party. Yikes!

Our first day we took the scenic railway train, a delightful and beautifully restored old train, up to Karanda. It was a slow but fun and a lovely way to climb up the mountain. Throughout the journey commentary runs giving you information on the history and construction of the railway, the natural features of Barron Gorge, and Falls and the Dreamtime story of how the gorge was created.

Being a Monday Karanda was pretty sleepy. I can imagine on a weekend the place would be bustling. We visited the Butterfly Sancturary and the markets were Ken and the kids enjoyed a game of mini golf on the most lush and tropical of courses. To get home we took the Skyrail cable car across the canopy of the rainforest. It was a little freaky but totally cool at the same time.

The Skyrail experience was really made by seeing two of the elusive Ulysses butterfly. Their bright blue wings stood out so clearly against the canopy of the rainforest. On the second stop we had to change cars and took the opportunity to join a short tour by the park ranger through the rainforest. The guide was so passionate about this environment (Steve Irwin-esk), he had us all hanging on his every word and infected with his enthusiasm. Wonderful, education and memorable.

Our second day at Tjapukai Aborignal Cultural Park was also magic. Ken drew the short straw and had to find some birthday gifts for Georgia while us girls spend the day learning about the local Djabugay people, rainforest people. It was a really great day with the chance to learn how to throw a spear and boomerang, and about bush medicine and food, weapons, culture, law, creation and arts. Hopefully when we return to Cairns we can do the Tjapukai by night experience.

Map of the Tribes and language groups of indigenous Australians.

There is loads more to explore around Cairns but we need to keep moving at this point wanting to get to Cape York, (the most northerly point of Australia) and back to Cairns in the next month. Next stop Port Douglas to celebrate Georgia 7th birthday.

Camp # 30, Day 92 to 94 – Mission Beach, QLD

Driving through Townsville today we had a few things to pick up. An early birthday present for Gigi, a new bike helmet, and a few other stops for supplies. By the time we’d gather all our bit and bobs it was lunchtime before getting back on the road.

The drive was very pleasant and we enjoy passing through the sugar cane country. Being harvest time there are cane trains weaving their way from field to field, farm to farm and on to the sugar mill. Only one sugar mill still operates tours for the public and Ken and the girls are going to take the tour in Tully just 20 mins south of Mission Beach.

We had trouble finding a vacancy in any of the parks in Mission Beach leaving me wishing we had booked ahead but thankfully we found a park to “squeeze”us in, and they meant it. Great little park Tropical Hibiscus Tourist Park but it’s tight. Being late in the day were the last to arrive and had an audience. But as Kenny does, he rose to the occasion and nailed the reverse parking of the van in one hit. It was pretty to watch and rightly so was rewarded with an applause from the neighbour’s, who along with me, were all shaking our heads about how he was going to get into the spot.

The next day Friday, we schooled, toured the sugar mill and enjoyed an epic beach walk. Crab chasing,  palm tree climbing, musical coconut bongos, parent/child horse back races and views, views, views. Was one of those moments that affirms why we are doing this. Beach + Halls = Happy Place.

Saturday, no school and we all love that, was a beach day. Turns out we happened to land in Mission Beach the same weekend as the local regional nippers carnival and my cousins Meg, Andrew and young Jack were participating. While Andrew was on duty we had a lovely few hours on the beach cooling off in the Coral Sea. I do love catching up with family, we have always been spread across the country and now the world so it always special.

Our brief but beautiful visit was rounded out by a social night in the park. This caravan park is quiet small and has a couple of wood fire pizza ovens. They cook them if you bring your own pizza. It’s always nice chatting with other folks but I just don’t find we, or I, have the time for it much. The grey nomads are always sharing a sun downer together but with a brood of 3 there is always something needing to be done. Ken and I often find ourselves looking at them sitting by their neat and tidy vans, reading a book in peace, with a tinge of envy, but then we are loving sharing this experience with the girls and the time for that will come.

Mission beach was brief but lovely and no midges or sandflies to report. Maybe a place to return at some point.

Charlottes scratch art while waiting for dinner at the Nana’s Thai.

Camp # 29, Day 91 – Wunjunga, QLD

While in Arlie Ken had received his Drifta Field Oven and pizza stone to go with the fire pit and was keen to try it out. So he found a free camp, stocked up on fire wood and went on a mission for us to have our homemade bush wood fired pizza’s for dinner.

The camp was only 120 clicks up the road so the drive was pretty leisurely. Stopping off at the big mango for the obligatory photo and to learn the history of the delicious mangos arrival to our shores. Here we also had a chat with a young couple we had seen riding up the Bruce Hwy. I think we had also seen them on another stretch of road some weeks back. From Chillea and riding from Brisbane to Cairns. Better them than me but alway admire their adventurous spirit.

The first free camp was a bit exposed (and I got the creeps from the bearded fisherman already on site), so we went a little further up the road and pull into a popular and busy camp ground. It was set back from the beach but protected from the wind. I have to confess I was not really into it tonight. There is always something to be doing washing, cleaning, cooking, blogging, schooling, researching where we are sleeping tomorrow or the next night and playing and looking after Llewella etc etc etc. But I think I was also just so tormented by the itching and scatching, I was too scared to go outside for fear of acquiring any more bites.

Anyway I prepped inside and Ken cooked outside. It was a pretty successful first run but its going to take a bit to learn how to get the coals just right and enough coals on top of the oven to brown the top but not burn the bottom. Yum Yum though.

Just stopping that one night here and on to Mission Beach tomorrow.

Camp # 28, Days 84 to 90 – Airlie Beach, QLD

A travel day and tour day all in one today. We were keen to visit Bredl’s Wildlife Farm and with the only vacancies on the day we were traveling to Airlie Beach how fortunate it was pretty much on the way.

The Bredl Family has been working with animals and playing with crocs for 3 generation and their knowledge and perspective of the animals is largely based on their own experience and observation. Some of what they presented to us seemed in contrast with what you might hear from other conservationist and wildlife management folk. At first I wasn’t sure how this sat with me but in the end we had a wonderful day and leant loads. It was clear the brothers and family genuinly cared for the welfare and conservation of all animals and their perspective was interesting and thought provoking.

The whole day (four hours) was up close interactions with all the animals, cassowaries, kangaroos, koala’s, lizards, snakes, turtles and croc’s. It really was fantastic and we all came away feeling a lot more knowledgeable about crocs in particular and that has helped relieve the worries of traveling through croc country.

As we approach Arlie Beach it was with an air of excitement. The gateway to the Whitsunday Island, a destination that boast of such beauty and seems such an exoctic location to visit, I guess I just never imagined I would actually be here. That, and we were expecting a few parcel deliveries here.

The first thing that strikes you as you drive in is the colour of the water. Is it aqua? Is it turquoise? Hard to say but it’s definately memorable and beautiful and you cant help but release a long slow breath and just wind down a gear or two.

After exploring the Airlie foreshore and lagoon we paid a visit to the information Centre and booked ourselves a couple of really special tours. A day sailing, snorkeling and lazing aboard the Derwent Hunter and another taking to the air in a seaplane to explore the Great Barrier Reef, Whitehaven Beach and Whitsunday Islands. Both were spectacular the, but the flight just an amazing experience. One of the coolest things Ken and I have done, ever!

Our day on the Derwent Hunter sailing ship was excellent and educational. The staff were so knowledgeable sharing with us the history of the ship which was built in 1946 by Walter Wilson. He came out of retirement to build her and she was to be his legacy. Built in Tassie of the finest material she has weathered some serious storms and the fact she is still sailing the sea’s today is testimony to the craftmanship. Along with this fascinating story we were delivered a fabulous talk about the reef, the islands and the sea life that live here. All beautifully connecting to our investigation into bio diversity.

 

The snorkeling was enjoyable but the water was a little cold. Even with wet suits it just needed to be a touch warmer and we could have stayed out there all day, but we have to remind ourselves this is winter. We were fortunate though to see both a massive manta ray and whales. It’s just coming into the season, so that was an added bonus.

The day of the flight was an early start arriving at the airport in the dark to check in and getting fitted out with wetsuits. After a briefings form the pilot we took off not long after sunrise and flew to the outer reef, where the pilot landed in a lagoon and pulled up to a waiting boat. He then took us a little closer to the edge of the reef before we had an hour to do some snorkeling. Unfortunately the wind had got up and still being so early it was pretty cold. But who cares the whole things was totally amazing.

After refreshments we returned to the plane and took off heading back to the islands before landing again at Whitehaven Beach (apparently the best beach in the world). Powdery white sand and crystal clear waters. Apparently we have a lot of parrot fish to thank for this amazing beach. The parrot fish clean the corals on the reef by eating the algae attached to them, but it seems they like to have a wee munch on the coral while they are at it. They then poop it out in the form of the fine white powder that makes up amazing beach that is so fine you can clean your jewellery with it and not scratch it. Spectacular and being a sheltered from the wind we enjoyed a magical swim here.

Our final day here in Arlie beach we drove up the coast a bit to explore other beaches and found ourselves at Hideaway Bay. Unbeknownst to us there is a bar and resort out here so seemed only right to stop and have lunch while taking in the beauty of that touquise water again and build a couple of sand castles.

During our stay here the family we had met and befriend in Haliday Bay arrived and we enjoyed a couple of night socializing. The girls concocted a plan to cook dinner for both families and they did a splendid job. Working in the camp kitchen and impressing all with their Mexican themed night. Mint and watermelon coolie to drink, guacamole with corn chips, nachos, and mini pav’s with cream and fresh fruit! Totally awesome effort, bringing the two families together. Super proud of Charlotte and Willow. I didn’t even mind having to re wash all the dishes till 11pm. 😉🤪.

Arlie beach done and loved it!  The only thing to put a dampener on things was being eaten alive by sandflies and or midges, who knows, but feels like I am going completely coo coo by the insecent itching and scratching! On the upside for Ken, while the mossies love him, the midges or sandflies have not pallet for his exotic blood, instead wishing to only feast on me. Great news for the rest of the family! #takingthisonefortheteam, #youcan’twinthemall.

 

 

Lottes lap of oz #3

Hello 🙃

I think you might have noticed that I haven’t blogged like for ever and that’s because of life and becaus i never know what to write about . Mum suggest that I choose a less broad topic so I went with wiled life .

I’ll go back at Australia zoo where it all started,if you haven’t been you need to go if you have been you need to go again. I loved it all but my favourite part had to be the croc and bird show or the part when I got to hugged dingos I am not sure but it was by far the best zoo i have ever been to .

as we left mum let us get one of the bindi books witch we really enjoyed. So that’s prity much how I realised how important our wiled life is so i am doing what i can to help.

 

 

Lotte out🦄

 

 

 

 

Camp # 27, Days 80 to 83 – Cape Hillsborough, Haliday Bay, QLD

We had heard Cape Hillsborough was a beautiful place to visit and we enjoyed a lovely stay. With few free camps and the caravan park full we found a small beach front camp ground attached to a resort / golf course at Haliday bay. Before we had even parked up Charlotte had found a friend so it looked like it was going to be a good stay for her.

A beautiful location, sweeping little bay, enclosed by forest covered hills, leaning palm trees and  the blue inviting waters of the coral sea. We are not yet completely comfortable in our knowledge of crocodiles and where and when may be safe to go in the water so while this place looks like paradise there is an uncomfortable edge for us.

The camp host another Leonie and Pete were very welcoming. It was warm and most people were enjoying a swim in the ocean surrounded by a stinger net so we followed suit and while the water was cold it was also refreshing. Durning the length of our stay, (4 days), the weather would remain sunny but with a constant wind to cool to swim.

It was a very relaxing place and Charlotte’s friend turned out to also be from Perth and traveling around Australia so the girls really hit it off and both relished the opportunity of the social engagement. Before our first day was out they had already planned a charity bake sale and announce it to each caravan at Haliday Bay. Who could stand in the way of such enthusiasm and a good cause.

Following our visit to Australia Zoo Charlotte has been investigating the role of a wildlife warrior and way she can raise funds as she travels. Without wasting anytime here we go, and what a success the bake sale was.

The girls were up early and kicked things of well with the first batch of apple and cinnamon muffins in the oven in no time. Next the blueberry muffins were ready an in the other vans oven, and not long follow by the strawberry and apricot jam drops. What a spread!

By 10 a.m. the girls were set up and selling. With a hungry and sympathic bunch of grey nomads looking forward to something sweet to go with a cuppa tea they sold like hot cakes …….. boom boom. Raising $100 they did really well and mum spent the rest of the morning doing the dishes. Ah well, small price to pay for a good deed and a maths lesson done.

The following morning we were up for sunrise at Cape Hillsborough. Regularly there wallabies and roo’s come down to the beach and make for a secptaular photo opp. While we did see some roo’s we missed getting a shot on of the one roo that hopped to the lapping edge of the water and stood for a micro second before hopping back to the dunes. Was lovely to witness as is the stillness and promise that accompanies a sunrise.

Next was breakfast before a delightful walk through the mangroves and sudden transition to open bushland in Cape Hillsborough National Park. The circuit was signposted along the way educating about bio-diversity; plants, animals, connection. Love it! What a great topic for schooling, we have really been lacking on the science front, but this can be an on going investigation as we travel through the land and various ecosystems we discover. Thank you Cape Hillsborough NP.

With such a lovely setting both Ken and I enjoyed a morning hill climb and yoga on the beach. Not together but we both had came away with the desire to establish a healthy and nourishing morning ritual and this seemed to start to come together here but like everything we will need to be disaplined to keep it going.

Cats of Australia # 5 – by Georgia Hall

This was my birthday card from Mum and Dad

I haven’t seen many cats but i have seen cats out the window of the car and one cat at a restaurant.

The cat I saw out the window was in Airlie Beach. We were just leaving town and it ran across the road into a garden. It was brown with black strips and too quick for us to get a picture.

The next cat was in Mission Beach at a Thai restaurant. Mum says it was a cranky cat because it bit and hissed at me. At first it seemed ok but then Mrs Crankypants cat turned cranky.

She was really pretty though, black, brown and white.

 

This is what mrs Crankypants would look like if she was going a party

 

cats of Australia out😼